Sewing-machine



(No Model. 2 Sheets-Sheet 1,

J. E. BERTRAND. I

SEWING MACHINE. o

No. 502,875. Patented Aug. 8, 1893.

Witnesses: I .Dwentor: 54 gm/Md hscphl'l'j erhfand 96 6%WM y I 1 Mmy. I

(No Model.) 2 S'heets-Sheet 2.

J. E. BERT'RAND.

SEWING MAGHINE. 1 I0.502,87 5. Patented Aug. 8, 1893.

UNITED STATES ATTENT OFFICE.

JOSEPH ELI BERTRAND, OF BOSTON, ASSIGNOR OF ONE-HALF TO MELLEN BRAY, OFNEWTON, MASSACHUSETTS.

SEWING-MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent no. 502,875, dated August8, 1893.

Application filed March 15, 1893. Serial n3. 466,128. (No model.)

To all whom it may cancer-mi. 'i Be it known that I, JOSEPH ELIBERTRAND, of Boston, in the county of Suffolk and State ofMassachusetts, have invented certain new and useful Improvements inSewing-Machines, of

to the description of the drawings and to the claims hereinaftercontained and in which my invention is clearlypointed out.

Figure 1 of the drawings is a partial front elevation of a machineembodying my invention, only so much of the machine being shown as isnecessary to properly illustrate my invention. Fig. 2 is a sectionalelevation of the machine the cutting plane being on line mp0, on Fig. 1,said view showing only such parts as are necessary to the properunderstanding of my invention. Fig. 3 is a vertical section on line 1 y,on Fig. 2. Fig.4 is aplan of the presser-foot operating bar and thelever and pawls for lifting the same. of the presser foot carryinglever. Fig.6 is a perspective View of the presser-foot, its carryinglever and the rand guide. Fig. 7 is a front elevation of thepresser-foot viewed in the direction indicated by the arrow 1, on Fig.2. Fig. 8 is a plan of the same viewed in the direction indicated by thearrow 2 on Fig. 2. Fig. 9 is an elevation of the back side of upperportion of the rand guide. Fig. 10 is a section through the presserfootand rand guide on line '0, '0, on Fig. 7.

In the drawings A is the bed of the head of the machine, B one of theend frames, 0 the tie girt connecting the upper ends of said end frames,D the cam shaft, E the shuttle race, F the shuttle, G the shuttleoperating shaft, H a the shuttle driver, B one of the stands forsupporting the shuttle race, I) a shaft mounted in bearings in the upperends of the stands B, I the needle carrying radius arm mounted on saidshaft b, c the needle guide, and d the loop of the needle and awl.

Fig. 5 is a plan ating substantially as shown and described intheLetters Patent No. 432,011, granted to me July 15, 1890.

The parts of the machine not shown in the accompanying drawings areconstructed, arranged and operate the same as shown and described insaid citedprior patent, and as they do not form parts of my presentinvention they are omitted in order to more clearly illustrate thespecial features of my invention.

In the machine illustrated in the before cited Letters Patent thepresser-foot was attached directly to a vertically movable bar and wasmovable only vertically or in a direction tangential to the curve ofmovement That arrangement was all right for that kind of work for whichthat machine was designed, viz: the sewing of the outer sole of a bootor shoe to the welt after said welt and the inner sole had been securedto the upper, but I have found by practical test that in performing somekinds of work such for instance as the sewing on of the soles of turnedshoes or sewing welts to inner soles a better result can be obtained byhaving the presser foot arranged to move in an arc of a circleapproximately the same as that in which the needle and awl move.accomplish this I mount upon the shaft 12, so as to be movable about theaxis thereof, the

lever J provided with the'hub I which has a bearing in the stand B, towhich it is held in close contact by the nut e as shown in Figs.

1 and 3, but so as to be freely movable therein. To this lever J issecured the presser foot J by means of the arm 6 and the screws e asshown in Figsrl, 2, and 6. The rear end of the lever J has pivotedthereto one end of the link K the opposite end of which is pivoted tothe rear end of the lever L fulcrumed at f and pivoted at its front endto the lower end of the bar M mounted in a vertical position ina'bearing in the tie girtO. and movable vertically by the lever N andspring N substantially as the presser foot bar was mounted and moved insaid before'cited Letters-Patent. The bar M is held in place in itsbearing by the cap M which is provided with the upwardly projecting stayarm y, de-

signed to act as a support for the upper end of the bar M and receivethe outward thrust of the pawls i and 2" when acting upon said bar tolift it. The bar M has secured to opposite sides thereof the two steelblocks M M in the rear faces of which are cutratchet teeth with theirengaging shoulders downward, with which the pawls i and 2" respectivelyengage at different times, according to the thickness of the workbeneath the presser foot, to automatically raise said bar M and therebycause the presser-foot J to be raised from the work moving in a pathconcentric with the axis of motion of the needle and awl.

In the machine shown and described in the before cited patent the twoblocks answering to those marked l\l-M in the drawings of this case wereprovided with ratchet teeth the shoulders of which faced in oppositedirections, one of said ratchets being used to raise the presser footand the other to lock it against any possibility of itsbeing lifted atcertain times, and the pawls were of the simple form having only oneengaging point each. This has been found to be unsatisfactory because inorder to provide for the variations in the thickness of stock the teethwere necessarily too fine, and the points of the pawls were not strongenough to be durable. To obviate this objection I use two pawls i and ipivoted upon opposite sides of the lever 0 and each provided with aseries of teeth correspondingto the teeth on the blocks M and M theshoulders of the teeth on both of said pawls facing upward and soarranged relative to the teeth on the blocks that when the teeth of onepawl are in engagement with the teeth of its ratchet the shoulders ofthe teeth on the other pawl will be removed from contact with theshoulders of the ratchet teeth a distance equal to one half the distance between two shoulders of said ratchet and vice versa.

To lock the presser foot against beinglifted when not required, I setinto a recess in the back side of the bar M near its lower end a steelblock j having formed in its rear face a series of serrations or ratchetteeth extending transversely across the same with which the locking boltP having formed on its front end a corresponding series of teeth,engages, said bolt being mounted in a horizontal position in hearings inthe tie girt, and having secured thereon the collar 715 between whichand the front part of said tie girt said bolt is surrounded by thespiral spring Z the tension of which tends to move said bolt away fromthe block j. The boltP also has loosely fitted thereon the collar onbetween which and the fixed collar 7t) is placed a spring n, said collarm being engaged by the forked upper end of the arm 0 of the elbow leverQ mounted upon the stud 19 set in the tie C of the tie girt O, as shownin Fig. 3. The other arm 0', of said lever Q, bears against and is actedupon by the face cam R to force said locking bolt into engagement withthe toothed block j with a yielding pressure as shown in Fig. 2. The

pawls are pressed toward the ratchet blocks M and M by springs q, andare held out of engagement with the teeth of said blocks by the pin 0"set in the stands 3 and s and extending between said pawls andratchetblocks as shown in Figs. 1 and 2.

The presser foot has formed therein the slot t to receive the front endof the upper needle guide or stay 21,, and with the outwardly andupwardly projecting curved 11p c, which forms the lower half of aguide-way for d1- recting the rand into position to be sewed to theinner sole, and with the upwardlyprojecting rectangular boss S to whichis ad ustably secured by the screws 0" r the plate T provided with thecurved lip w which forms the upper half of said rand guide as shown inFigs. 1, 2 and 6.

The presser-foot J is automatically raised from the work while the Workis being fed preparatory to forming a new stitch by the action of thecam path formed in the sideof the cam disk U upon the truck w carried bythe rear end of the lever O as indicated in dotted lines in Fig. 2.

A very great advantage is obtained in the result produced by having thepresser foot movable about the same axis as the needle and awl,particularly when sewing material of varying thicknesses because thepresser foot bears upon the work at the same distance from the needlewhatever the thickness of the material being sewed.

The operation of my invention will be readily understood from theforegoing without further description here.

What I claim as new, and desire to secure by Letters Patent of theUnited States, is-- 1. The combination with a curved needle constructedand arranged to reciprocate in an arc of a circle, of a lever mountedupon and movable about the same shaft as said needle; a presser-footsecured to said lever and movable therewith; a second lever fulcrumedupon a fixed part of the machine; a link connecting the rear ends ofsaid two levers; a vertically movable bar pivoted at its lower end tosaid second lever; means for antomatically lifting said bar and throughit the presser-foot; and means having provision for automatically locking said bar and presserfoot in position to clamp the work.

2. The combination with a curved needle constructed and arranged to bereciprocated in an arc of a circle, of the levers J and L; the link K;the presser-foot J carried by the lever J and movable in a planeconcentric to the axis of motion of said needle; the bar M provided withthe lifting ratchets M and M and the toothed locking block j andconnected at its lower end to the lever L; the lever O; the liftingpawls 'i and 2" carried by said lever 0; the cam U for operating saidlever; the locking bolt P and means having provision for automaticallyreciprocating said bolt to lock and unlock the presser-foot.

3. In combination with a vertically recip- IIO name to thisspecification, in the presence of two subscribing witnesses, on this10th day [0 of March, A. D. 1893.

JOSEPH ELI BERTRAND.

Witnesses:

N. O. LOMBARD, H. T. CROSBY.

